How to Convert a Chlorine Pool to a Saltwater System

Tired of handling chlorine tablets and liquid shock? Do you love the idea of softer, silkier water that's gentler on your skin and eyes? Converting your traditional chlorine pool to a modern saltwater system is a popular upgrade that many pool owners find well worth the investment. While it might sound like a major overhaul, the process is surprisingly straightforward for a DIY-savvy homeowner or a pool professional.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the conversion process, from understanding the costs and choosing the right equipment to adding the salt and flipping the switch on your new system.

Step 1: Understanding the Cost and Components

Before you begin, it's essential to understand what a conversion entails. You are not changing the water in your pool or the pool's structure. You are simply changing the method of sanitation—from manually adding chlorine to generating it automatically on-site.

What You Need to Buy: The Saltwater Chlorine Generator (SWCG)

The heart of the conversion is the Saltwater Chlorine Generator (SWCG), also known as a salt cell and control board. This system consists of two main parts:

• The Salt Cell: This is the part that's plumbed directly into your pool's return line (after the filter and heater). Inside are metal plates that perform electrolysis to create chlorine from salt.
• The Control Panel: This is the "brain" of the system. It mounts on a nearby wall and connects to the cell. It's where you control the chlorine output percentage and monitor the system's status (salt level, flow, etc.).

Choosing the Right Size SWCG

This is the most critical decision. SWCGs are rated for a maximum pool volume (e.g., "up to 25,000 gallons"). It is a universal best practice to **oversize your SWCG**. If your pool is 20,000 gallons, you should buy a system rated for 30,000 or even 40,000 gallons. If you don't know your volume, use our Pool Volume Calculator first.

Why oversize?

• Longer Cell Life: A larger cell can run at a lower percentage for fewer hours to produce the same amount of chlorine as a smaller cell running at max power. This drastically reduces wear and extends the expensive cell's life (typically 3-7 years).
• Boost Capability: You'll have extra power to "super chlorinate" or boost chlorine production after a party or a storm without adding shock manually.
• Energy Savings: An oversized cell can work effectively even when a variable speed pump is running at a lower, energy-saving RPM.

Estimated Costs

The total cost will vary, but here's a general breakdown:

• SWCG System: $800 - $1,800, depending on brand and size.
• Pool Salt: $100 - $300 for the initial dose, depending on your pool size. Use our Salt Bag & Cost Calculator to estimate.
• Professional Installation: $300 - $700, if you choose not to DIY. This involves plumbing and electrical work.

Your total upfront cost for conversion will likely be between **$1,200 and $2,800**. While significant, this cost is often recouped in 2-4 years from the savings on buying chlorine pucks and liquid shock.

Step 2: Balance Your Water Chemistry (The "Before" Step)

Before you install any equipment or add any salt, you must start with perfectly balanced water. Your traditional chlorine pool water is perfectly fine to use; there's no need to drain it. However, the existing Free Chlorine level should be low (around 1-3 ppm). If you just shocked the pool, wait for the chlorine level to come down.

Balance your water in this specific order, letting the pump run for a few hours between adjustments:

1. Total Alkalinity (TA): Adjust to 80-120 ppm. Use our Total Alkalinity Calculator.
2. pH Level: Adjust to 7.2-7.6. Use our pH Calculator.
3. Calcium Hardness (CH): Adjust to 200-400 ppm. Salt cells are prone to scaling, so keeping CH from getting too high is important. Use our Calcium Hardness Calculator.
4. Cyanuric Acid (CYA) / Stabilizer: This is crucial. Your existing CYA level might be around 30-50 ppm. For a saltwater pool, you want a higher level of **60-80 ppm** to protect the chlorine your new cell will produce. Use our CYA Calculator to make the adjustment.

Step 3: Install the Saltwater Chlorine Generator

This step involves both plumbing and electrical work. **If you are not comfortable and experienced with both, hire a qualified pool professional or electrician.**

1. Turn Off Power: Turn off all power to the pool equipment at the circuit breaker.
2. Install the Control Panel: Mount the SWCG control panel to a wall near your equipment pad, within reach of the power source and the location where the cell will be installed.
3. Install the Salt Cell: This is the plumbing part. You need to cut a section of your PVC return line to install the salt cell. It must be installed **last** in the line of equipment—after the pump, filter, and heater. Follow the manufacturer's instructions precisely for placement, orientation, and gluing the unions in place.
4. Wire the System: Connect the salt cell to the control panel. Then, wire the control panel to the power source. This is often wired to the same terminal as the pool pump so that the SWCG only receives power when the pump is running. **Again, hire an electrician if you are unsure.**

Step 4: Add the Salt

Now for the main event. Your SWCG should still be **OFF** during this process.

1. Determine Salt Needed: Use an accurate salt test to get your current salt level (your chlorine pool may have some residual salt). Then, use our main Pool Salt Calculator to determine the exact amount of salt needed to reach your SWCG's target level (e.g., 3200 ppm).
2. Purchase Pool Salt: Buy salt that is at least 99.8% pure sodium chloride and intended for pools. Do not use rock salt or water softener salt with additives.
3. Add the Salt: Turn your pump on. Pour the salt directly into the shallow end of the pool. Use your pool brush to push the salt around to help it dissolve.
4. Let it Dissolve: Run the pump continuously for 24 hours. Brush the pool floor periodically to ensure all salt dissolves and doesn't pile up on the surface.

Step 5: Activate and Fine-Tune Your New System

This is the final step where you bring your new system online.

1. Verify Salt Level: After 24 hours of circulation, use your independent salt tester to confirm the salt level is in the target range.
2. Turn on the SWCG: Now you can finally turn on your salt system. Set the output to a medium level, around 50%, and let it run for a full pump cycle.
3. Test Free Chlorine: After a day or two, test your Free Chlorine (FC) level. The ideal range is 3-5 ppm for a saltwater pool. Adjust the output percentage up or down as needed until you find the "sweet spot" that maintains a consistent FC level.

Congratulations! You have successfully converted your pool to a saltwater system. Enjoy the soft water and the reduced daily maintenance, but remember to keep up with your regular water chemistry testing to protect your new investment.